Sunday, November 30, 2014

A busy week of research in Jaipur with Ayurvedic practitioners & Jains PART 1

        Early in the week I had a meeting with someone who was to be a key Jain connection here in Jaipur. Our phone conversations had failed miserably but I had heard he was a wonderful person so I went in with an open mind. I arrived near the Jain compound early and from my previous stay in this area I knew there were momos to be had in the mall across the street. Inside I saw the same momo-stand but they only had veggie momos and I had a hankering since the previous day and went for a Subway deli-sub (without the veggies, of course…the mistake of assuming veggies of international chains are somehow safer got Alex into trouble in the Delhi airport in 2010 and made for her longest airplane ride ever). The compound was a bit desolate and it looked like they were cleaning up the aftermath of a big celebration. The compound has a temple in the central courtyard, 2 huge grassy areas, one beside the residences and the other beside what seems to be the main celebration hall. I wasn’t sure where to find Dr. Sogani but went upstairs to the area where the canteen and lecture hall is and found three people at a table. I poked my head in and made a gesture like I didn’t want to interrupt. Dr. Sogani invited me in and the two people with him said they were just chatting. The people with Dr. Sogani, an erudite Jain scholar and language teacher, said they were from Sydney, Australia and were studying Prakrit with him. Dr. Sogani was friendly and I learned that he is in his 80s so some of my irritation from our earlier failed communications melted away. The pair said that they do 2 hour sessions with him and then he gets tired. He was very friendly and smiling but we both had language barriers with each other. I told him that I had found a place to stay and thanked him very much for discussing accommodations with me…he said something about the rooms there being over rs 700 and I told him I had a great place for a good price in Gopalbari (I have since found out that there are researchers staying there now, but I’m happy where I’m at). I then told him about my project and he looked perplexed. He asked what I was researching and I said Jainism and health. I also told him we both appeared in the same book, and gave him the details of a publication we both had articles in (mine on Jain Voluntary Fasting unto Death or sallekhana)…hoping that would lend some legitimacy. Nope. No idea. I handed him one of my info sheets and he said he had read it…I then realized that one person I was emailing with about interviews was his assistant. I asked if he could help me find people to interview and after telling him I interviewed Dr. Shugan Jain in Delhi he handed the paper back to me and said that if I interviewed him that certainly was enough. My heart sank and I told him light-heartedly that I was looking to do about 50 interviews in India and 50 in Canada, and the female of the visiting pair tried to explain the ethnographic nature of my project (one spoke some Hindi), and he looked surprised. I asked if I could interview him and he said maybe after working with this pair in the middle of December, and when I asked if he had any suggestions for other people I could interview he gave me a few names and addresses, a partial phone number and no emails of course. I asked if he could put up a poster for recruitment (with detachable email leaves) and he handed my papers back to me shaking his head. I asked if he was willing to be interviewed and frowned and waved me off saying not really. I suppose one only gets time with him if one is studying Prakrit with him. I think the language barriers between us were factors also. At least he was straight up with me. He was indeed warm in person but I found him dismissive and resolved to not be discouraged and to find my own ways to get recruits for the study. Many recruits have come from meeting people in person, word of mouth and from social networking.
            The next day I had a meeting with a well-known Ayurvedic doctor who I was told about by an amazing fellow in Delhi that I came into contact with through a Jain youth organization online. I hadn’t slept well so was tired and cranky and as we passed the Pink City gates... 


...started living through another example of directions gone wrong…one part of the directions sent me to one place, another part of the directions to another area completely. I had seen one landmark that was described to me and knew in my gut that was where we were to go but let the rickshaw driver ask several people for directions, as they are wont to do. Fortunately I leave lots of time to get to appointments and eventually we ended up back at the right lane in the Pink City. 


Several people down the narrow lane pointed me towards the clinic and I arrived at a yellow archway leading into a courtyard. 


I was told to take off my shoes and went down into a waiting-area with quite a few people sitting quietly on metal chairs. I checked in at the desk and sat to wait, noticing the table splitting the room had hard-cover folders with reading materials in them. Almost instantly I was brought into the back and sat in front of a desk. Not knowing what was happening I pulled out my computer and someone told me to put it away because he was coming. As Sri Sushil Vaidya-ji entered the room there were about 8 people inside a small office, women and men all well-dressed and bowing slightly and hushed. The Vaidya was quite frail but energetic, wearing all white with glasses and a bit unshaven. He sat beside me and I sat after him and waited for someone to guide me as to the protocol. Nothing happened so I said I was doing research on religion and health and would like to interview him, handing him and info sheet which he read and nodded while doing so. He handed it back and started to leave, and I got up also, and he must have noticed my confusion and he put his hand on my shoulder and said warmly with a huge smile, while looking right into my eyes: “wait and we’ll talk soon, ok?” Sushil Vaidya-ji left the room and I was taken into another room with empty patient beds and blue and orange curtains. I was sat with a female volunteer as Sushil Vaidya-ji’s daughter Dr. Kala Kasliwal was busy seeing patients. I told the volunteer that was currently babysitting me, Poonam, that this was a bit awkward for me because this was a patient care area and the doctor seemed to be very busy, but nobody was concerned about these things. In fact, she asked about my research and after I told her a bit about my project she said that it would be interesting for me to observe how religion is incorporated into the care delivery. Poonam told me that she was new there and learning what she could, asked my religion and told me she is devoted Jain Svetambar (Murtipujak). I asked her if I could interview her and perhaps some other staff as well and she said it would be up to Sushil Vaidya-ji. I noticed patients being massaged, wiggled and percussed, and Dr. Kasliwal taking a history from a mother about her son who was coughing and her assistant busily scribbling notes when the doctor spoke. At one point Dr. Kasliwal lifted her arms and swung them around and said “this is my theatre!” A fellow walked in and greeted the doctor and she introduced him as her senior, and the fellow promptly sat down all smiles and wanted to chat with me. He asked if I believe in rebirth and told me about meditating on parts of the head for different purposes, mentioned a worker at the clinic remembering being a peacock in Jain temple in the immediately preceding life, and mentioned Jain Samadhi Marana (death in meditation). I told him I have spent time investigating sallekhana and he said many think it is not good but he thinks that it is good way to die, one that all Jain saints hope for. I looked at Poonam and told her that this was the kind of conversation I was looking for in my interviews! I asked the fellow, named Naveen Jain, if I could interview him and he was overjoyed and we exchanged contact info. He asked if we could do it that night but I told him I had another interview that night and that the next day would be best. He is the first recruit so far that planned on coming to me for the interview, as the area I’m living in is on the way for him when he returns home from work. More on Naveen later…he has turned out to be a very compelling respondent and a new friend.
            I was then ushered into a small office and met a tall block-faced older fellow in a brown suit. He shook my hand warmly and looked me in the eyes and said “you are most welcome!” The Sushil Vaidya-ji entered with some other people who left, and he went straight to sit on a small metal chair rather than the chairs with woven wicker padding despite the fellow and myself trying to get him to a better chair. We all sat down and I soon was told that the fellow was Sushil Vaidya-ji’s younger brother!

TO BE CONTINUED!

- - Meeting Sri Sushil Vaidya-ji
- - Arogya Bharti Tour, tea, photos
- - interview with Jain philosopher in a Pink City apartment

- - Naveen chases me in the street to give me a text, we have 2 interviews, he brings me for a Jain family dinner

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